Kili Aborted

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After returning from our day in Arusha, we learned that our meeting with our guide for Kilimanjaro started in 10 minutes.  It was the first indication that there was severe a lack of communication.

Mike & his box lunch          

At the meeting, we learned that our PRIVATE trip of 5 had turned into a group of 15.  The African Walking Company could only go on the information they were given unless directed to change things by Peak Planet. This news was a little upsetting to all of us as we had paid for a private trip.  Even more frustrating was that we were almost sent up the mountain without any of our dietary restrictions being communicated to the African Walking Company—2 vegetarians and 2 gluten free.  Thankfully, by dinner that night, Peak Planet had cleared up the confusion and the African Walking Company was scrambling to organize a private trip for five people with dietary restrictions.

Tammy enjoying life in the front seat.

The next morning we were up at 8:30 to head off to the mountain.  We had about a two and half hour drive to reach the entry point.  Much of the drive was through agricultural fields with tons of maize and sunflowers (for sunflower oil), with a smattering of a few small villages.  It was quite beautiful and provided our first views of Acacia trees and a cloud-covered Kilimanjaro.

Entry point to the park. Those are porter bags!   

Our stop at the Kilimanjaro Park entry point gave us our first real glimpse of the shear scale of what these guided climbs entailed.  For example, for the initial 15-person climb, 60 additional people were scheduled to come along (guides, cooks, and porters).  There were three companies present, several buses, heaps of gear, and all the assorted porters and guides. 

As we drove through the park, we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the Colobus monkeys in the forested areas that inhabit the lower elevations.  The dirt access road, despite reports of being extremely rough, wasn’t too bad.  We soon reached the trailhead to start the climb.

This is the trailhead and the porters.

After a brief introduction to our lead guide, Jonas, and assistant guide, Digland, we were on our way.  Digland lead the way, forcing us to walk “polé polé”.  We were also warned that while the porters had lingered behind at the trailhead they would be trotting past as we hiked.  That was definitely true.

Dina (red), Abby, Mike, & Tammy with a cloudy Kili.

The Shira Plateau is basically like hiking through coastal scrub that you’d find in San Luis Obispo as far as the eye could see.  As we walked, Kilimanjaro, initially covered in clouds, was revealed.  It was really quite striking.

We eventually made it to camp.  The term, camp, does not do justice to the village of tents that made up “camp”.  Because we were recently split from a larger group, things were running a little slow. But soon after choosing tents, we received our water for “washy washy”.  After a quick rinse, our cook tent was up and soon tea, coffee, and water were available.  The best part of this period was that drinks were followed quickly by popcorn, fresh, warm, salted popcorn.

By the time dinner rolled around, it was later than expected.  We were all starving and Adrienne’s mild headache had begun to worsen.  Dinner was fish, potatoes, bread (including gluten free), and vegetables.  Unfortunately, Adrienne’s headache induced nausea kept her from eating a great deal.  She quickly went to bed.

Mike & Tammy in the dining tent.

Each evening, all hikers were asked for complete honesty in describing how they felt.  Adrienne described her headache and nausea, immediately alarming Jonas.  He asked her to drink, take some painkillers and said that he would check on her in a few hours.  This cycle was repeated twice with no improvements, only a worsening of Adrienne’s health.  At 3AM, it was clear Adrienne would not be able to hike the next day and that she should be evacuated.  Adrienne then began vomiting, confirming the decision.  Big thanks to Abby for helping us repack and Mike and Tammy for sending us off.  Dina joined the evacuation to help a barely lucid Adrienne navigate the Tanzanian healthcare system.

The view from the dining tent.

The evacuation was a wobbly hour-long hike by headlamp to a road.  Here we had to wait.  Adrienne was freezing despite layers of down, hats, and the like.  Digland, who had escorted us out with two others and a porter, pulled Adrienne’s sleeping bag out to try to get her warm.  Thankfully, it worked and she fell asleep on the rocks.  When the transport arrived, we had to fit on a small front seat of a pickup truck, while Digland and the porter road in the back with our gear.  This road was ROUGH.  We couldn’t imagine what it would have been like in the back, but, as it was, Adrienne had to demand a stop to continue vomiting.  We’re not sure if it was headache or motion sickness that prompted that round.

It took another transport transfer to get us back to Arusha.  Thankfully, during that time Dina convinced Digland that Adrienne needed sleep more than the hospital.  We had heard horror stories of Tanzanian hospitals.  He agreed to take us back to the hotel. 

Our Kilimanjaro dreams were over. 

There have been tears and frustration over it.  We know it was out of our control. Kilimanjaro had been a goal for a long time.  We are disappointed and trying to make peace with it.  We have been forced to face it, though, because our hotel is filled with people about to climb or just down from the mountain.  Our first full day at the hotel was spent finding activities to fill the six days we had planned to spend climbing.  We will definitely see more of Tanzania and are glad for the opportunity, but I think we’d both rather be on the mountain.